19 dec. 2023 - Day 8 - Danco Island and Neko Harbour - 64°44.95’S / 62°35.2’W
Morning Danco Island
Just like yesterday, this morning we were greeted by a full Antarctic snowstorm with again wind of about 50 knots. The ship changed course from Damoy Point to Danco Island. This area was a bit more sheltered and allowed us to go on land. Although the sheltering was very relative.
We landed on Danco Island and could hike up the mountain again with snowshoes. There was an option to take an easier route but hell no, walking with snowshoes is fun! We made the same trip up the mountain as some Gentoo penguins next to us. I was really happy with my wind-proof shell (outer jacket) since there was still a full-on snowstorm going on. The poor penguins bravely weathered the storm. They didn’t seem too bothered by it, although they did get blown over a few times.
The snowstorm was so prominent that the track we left going up the mountain was already snowed over when we went back down. At least the weather cleared up, and we actually got a bit of sun.
Afternoon - Neko Harbour
In the afternoon it was still quite grey, chilly and windy, but at least it wasn’t a full snowstorm anymore. We were going to Neko Harbour. This area has a small peninsula surrounded by huge cliffs of snow. Before we went here the staff showed us a movie from a few trips ago where people were on the island and a few kayaks were in the sea. Then a huge piece of snow got loose and fell into the ocean. This made a huge wave that not only threw the kayakers around it also washed all over the shore and people had to run to higher ground to stay dry. This had everyone on their toes when we actually went ashore and saw the huge walls of snow looming over us.
We enjoyed a nice walk around the area and enjoyed the colonies of Chinstrap and Gentoo penguins. There were a few seals sleeping in the snow and the penguins just nonchalantly walked around them.
We also spotted a leopard-seal in the far distance swimming among the ice. Leopard-seals are apparently still a bit of a mystery in how they hunt, behave and procreate. This one was swimming and looked more like a water snake than a mammal. Really exciting to see it swimming. Maybe later we might see more of a leopard-seal (hint).
A lot of penguins were already brooding on their nest. This attracted the birds that were hunting for unguarded eggs. We did find some empty eggshells that were probably a tasty lunch. Fun fact: the egg white in penguin eggs is transparent. Sadly we didn’t get to try any.
Just as we went ashore and walked a bit higher up we did see a chunk of ice break off and crash into the ocean. Luckily the piece of ice was not as big as we’ve seen in the video. It did create a nice wave though. A bit later we heard some rumbling coming from the mountains and when we turned around we saw a full on avalanche in the distance. Very impressive to see the power of nature so vividly.
Later on we tried to see more of the sea leopard, but it swam away. Holding the camera ready did almost freeze my fingers of though. So it was time to go back to the ship
BBQ!
What is better than a party? A party at the other side of the world with Antarctica as your background. This evening we had a BBQ on the helicopter-deck of the ship. Although it was a little bit windy the ship moved to a more sheltered position and we had a great dinner with everyone outside. The captain was even going around pouring wine for everyone. After dinner, we enjoyed some music and a bit of dancing. Never have I danced in a landscape of icy mountains, a still ocean and all the lovely people I shared this journey with.
All in all a great evening.